Page 2 of 3
Re: USB Modem with built-in line voltage
Posted: Tue Jan 23, 2018 3:15 pm
by The-Amazing-Mr_V
My usb modem is from tact as well but they both look clean and are stable.
Re: USB Modem with built-in line voltage
Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2018 5:40 pm
by Whiteysnakey
-
Re: USB Modem with built-in line voltage
Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2018 10:22 am
by Whiteysnakey
-
Re: USB Modem with built-in line voltage
Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2018 1:05 pm
by Raen
Here's my take on the built-in LVI. Wasn't able to put the boost converter inside the DELL modem, due to the plastic that conducts the LED lights to the top of the case. Anyway, since I own a PAL, a NTSC-US and a NTSC-JAP modems, having the boost converter outside is useful to regulate the potentiometer that controls the output voltage, and doesn't look too bad either.
Cut the trace on the Modem PCB between the capacitor legs.

Re: USB Modem with built-in line voltage
Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2018 3:25 pm
by TacT
Nice job Raen. that's pretty much what i did just on the other trace guess it doesn't matter which one lol sorry i never got a guide together i hadn't made some for a while, thought i posted some pics but idk where they went.
knew if people were good enough to do the mod they could figure it out. Too bad that board didn't fit inside,the usb cable just seemed simpler
I did just make another batch of modems some people still wanted my old ones =]
Re: USB Modem with built-in line voltage
Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2018 3:26 pm
by Whiteysnakey
-
Re: USB Modem with built-in line voltage
Posted: Fri Mar 16, 2018 2:49 pm
by Raen
I did it over a year ago, not the tidiest work I've done, but gets the job done. I lack better tools and expertise on how to solder directly on the surface of the PCB (even if it these are through-hole components, and not SMDs), that's why the internal soldering looks a little dirty, while the soldering on the boost converter looks cleaner - through-hole soldering is way easier than surface soldering too, but if you lack the proper tools, it's even harder. I only had a 30 W soldering iron laying around, 60 W would be way better and proper, getting the solder to melt and adhere to both ends is a lot easier with a 60 W iron.
Used a heated paperclip to melt the plastic/rubber, to make way for the wires (which can be taken from an ethernet cable). Also, didn't use a diode.
@Whiteysnakey: Bought it off of eBay, the listing is long gone, but looks like this one:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/5pcs-DC-DC-2A- ... Sw5cNYa0DD
EDIT: Removed album link, some pictures were outdated and were displaying wrong connections.
Re: USB Modem with built-in line voltage
Posted: Fri Mar 16, 2018 2:55 pm
by Shuouma
Awesome, thnx for the pics Raen
Re: USB Modem with built-in line voltage
Posted: Fri Mar 16, 2018 3:04 pm
by Raen
No problem, wasn't too keen on having two USB ports used on the RPi just for the LVI...
EDIT: Oops! Better not use my pics as a reference! As I said before, I made this mod over a year ago, but didn't quite test it at the time due to lack of time, and then I just forgot about it. Took the change to give it a try now and can't get a connection with it ("no dial tone" error) in any game. The old-fashioned LVI I also have laying around worked fine with the stock modem, before I modded it.
Will have to check for faults, or if the culprit is the cut on the wrong trace (will have to re-shunt trace 4 and apply the LVI to trace 3 by cutting it).
Re: USB Modem with built-in line voltage
Posted: Sat Mar 17, 2018 11:16 pm
by Raen
Found this PCB schematic for a USB LVI for the Dreamcast. Never saw this posted, so I'll just leave it here:
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/wC3DWWcU
USB Line Voltage Inducer
By Zarradeth
2 layer board of 1.90 x 1.36 inches (48.3 x 34.5 mm).
Shared on January 16th, 2017 06:53
(v1.8)
A board for building a line voltage inducer (as part of a phone cable) powered by USB. Meant for use with a Dreamcast and DreamPi. The board includes a DC-DC boost converter which boosts the 5v supplied via the USB to the required voltage- both 9v and 18v are supported, you just have to populate the board for the appropriate voltage. Phone jacks are used instead of splicing the cable to make the inducer as easy to use as possible.
U1 is a TI MC33063AP
D0 should be a Schottky Diode with a high enough voltage rating
J1 and J2 were designed for Stewart Connector’s SS-6466S-A-PG1
J3 was designed for Amphenol FCI’s 73725-0110BLF
Might be useful for someone who wants something tidier and to make a case for it.