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Hold it up to the light and check for pinholes/ disc rot. Try different boot discs. A burned copy of Codebreaker works best for me. Or just sell the PAL copy you have and buy a japanense copy.

Japanese GD's seem to be better made and hold up better than the PAL Emi manufactured ones or the american Maxell and Technicolor manufactured GD Roms. Again the American and PAL GD's are way more prone to disc rot in my experiences.

OGDCFAN99 wrote:Hold it up to the light and check for pinholes/ disc rot. Try different boot discs. A burned copy of Codebreaker works best for me. Or just sell the PAL copy you have and buy a japanense copy.

Japanese GD's seem to be better made and hold up better than the PAL Emi manufactured ones or the american Maxell and Technicolor manufactured GD Roms. Again the American and PAL GD's are way more prone to disc rot in my experiences.

You do have a point. Codebreaker who just fine. If I'm not mistaken the Sylverant PSO boot disc works very well too even if that wasn't the original intention of it's existence. There is another form of disc rot where the metal underneath the label starts to oxidize which is why no laserdisc copy of Arnold Scavenger's Eraser survived. How you can tell is if the disc starts to turn bronze like what is shown below.

Now I have never heard of Rez to ever suffer from this but the whole pinhole thing seems to be more common in this case.

Yeah Ive had that bubbling effect happen on cdr's before but never a pressed retail disc. Even my 5= year old burned codebreaker disc is starting to bubble but it still works lol. Sony cdr's should hold up better than that though!

OGDCFAN99 wrote:Sony cdr's should hold up better than that though!

Sony CD-r's are built well enough but they certainly aren't build to last long enough. Now imagine how far south the quality has gone in the last 10 years. I personally use Verbatim and they have caused no issues on my end yet.