Page 1 of 1

control port

Posted: Sun May 26, 2013 3:04 am
by djexotic
today, i decaded to test my stick and notice my stick wasn't working so i plug in the controller and it also didn't work. so i glad another controller but 3rd party and slip the vmu and wouldn't work also. did i shorted out all my controller ports on my dreamcast.



need to know asap!!!!!!

Re: control port

Posted: Mon May 27, 2013 12:35 pm
by Raen
You may have burned the controller port board components, which are easy to replace if you have any soldering experience and cheap to buy:

13 ohm 0.5 W 5% resistor
0.39 ohm 0.25 W 5% fusible resistor
47 uf 10 V capacitor

Re: control port

Posted: Thu May 30, 2013 12:17 am
by djexotic
is their a diagram of the controller port board so i know what is what before i start taking my dreamcast apart and de-soldier the wrong resistor.

Re: control port

Posted: Thu May 30, 2013 5:19 pm
by Raen
Don't know of any, but open it up and you will see that it's pretty easy to figure it out, there's only those 3 components :wink:

And you might need this.

Re: control port

Posted: Sun Jun 09, 2013 1:47 am
by djexotic
Image

i think the one in the middle is out because its not shiny like the other resistor

Re: control port

Posted: Sun Jun 09, 2013 10:22 am
by krssn
It's the one labeled F1 you need to replace.

It's a 390mA pico fuse. But you probably won't find one with these exact specs though.

Second best bet is a quick blow 400mA fuse. That's what I fixed one of my Dreamcasts with. It looks like this...

Image

Re: control port

Posted: Mon Oct 28, 2013 8:29 am
by Raen
So, recently I bought a faulty DC for cheap and after testing what was damaged or not, by swapping parts from the faulty DC with a working one, I found a damaged motherboard with graphical display issues, a non-working PSU board and a dead controller board - every find points to a power surge.

As to the controller board, using a multimeter it was easy to find that the fusible resistor (labeled F1 on the PCB) was the culprit, the multimeter was reading values all over the place and not the 0,39 Ohm +/- 5% expected value.

The motherboard should have no fix available, as it seems that something related to the GPU is dead or malfunctioning and should be too much of a hassle to try to fix (can't desolder some components by hand with a simple soldering iron), so getting a new used one from the vast amount of Dreamcasts being sold for parts should be a lot easier.

Onto the PSU board, besides the dead fuse which is cheap and easy replaceable, I'm hoping to find a dead capacitor or transistor, which are generally very cheap to buy, or else I'll have to get a functional used PSU board too.