Is this site interested in portable handheld DreamCasts?

[bacteria]

Thought I would give an update on today. Spent the entire day on this - managed to move one of the fans a bit, the capacitors for the RGB lines (case didn't close), moved wiring a bit here and there; finally managed to get system to close - just. However, and here's the major pain in the butt - getting the DC drive unit installed fully into the case top - been a major annoyance - can do it but a CD catches the case as the drive unit can't quite be raised enough; having to work out how to do this. Will resume a solution today, one way or another.

Had case open and closed many times today, so hope nothing has come loose and everything still works ok - wise to test this out before trying a stratgy to get the case shut. That is my fear at the moment, no matter how careful you are, a short can happen on projects like this, or similar and instantly fry the whole system in worst case scenario.

I will probably have to relocate the ribbon cable on the DC drive board, so I can hot glue the drive unit to the case backing, at this rate, assuming that solves the issue. The problem is I need the back end of the drive unit to raise 2mm more than it does; and it is proving to be a problem - so the result at the moment is a CD is free on the spindle area but not the opposite end, so catches on the case. This has to be resolved.

Will keep you posted on progress!

Today's update:

The drive unit drops in perfectly into its space in the case top, however doesn't quite get into that position raising it inside the case, hence looking at securing the drive unit firmly into the case itself, which means I may as well fill in the screw holes made before as they won't be needed.

To keep it a little easier, rather than wiring directly to the ribbon cable port, I removed a spare one from a dead board by soldering all over the pins, then when the soldering iron was placed on the large blob, all solder heated including over all the pins, thereby enabling the port to lift off with pins intact. This was wired, and at the other end, soldered the wires directly to the ribbon. This was very careful soldering indeed - enough to secure a solder joint on the plastic cable but not to damage it.

The idea is that this cable acts like an extension cable; one end to extend the existing ribbon from the drive unit and the other to pop into the drive board port.


Hurrah!

This works - just tested it, to the start of a game. Looks like my cheap and cheerful home-made ffc connector worked like a dream! I couldn't find any fcc cables or on ebay that were suitable (16 pin 0.93mm pitch) let alone long enough; so making my own was THE option. Turned out to work well, and very cheap to make; issue is putting a hot soldering iron to a ribbon cable, but if you are careful, you are fine.

Pic of it working although of course a still photo isn't showing the disc rotating!



Now, just need to secure the drive unit in place with hot glue, and work out a clear path for the extra wiring to fill into so the case will shut. One issue after another, huh!

[Dr. Pariolo]

that sure looks messy lol

[bacteria]

Yes, packed tightly, very tightly!

[bacteria]

Ok, good news first:

* Case shuts, barely. Held it in place with electrical tape so it didn't come apart too easily. The system will have screws to hold it down of course.

* System clearly works and in the video, the d-pad and one of the buttons shows that.

* Nice to hold, although heavy at 1.5 kg. To compare, an unmodded DreamCast console by itself weighs in at about 1.2 kg.

Bad news:

* Seem to have some interference on the video line. might be positioning of the capacitors, etc, screen a little darker than before. If problem persists, may go back to composite instead of RGB. It could be that the batteries need recharging, possible.

* The VMU is being a pain, part of the middle of the screen is not showing, as per the video. This can be fixed, hopefully without removing the DC board.

* After about 30 seconds or maybe less, the system cuts out. It may be that the batteries are under too much strain, not sure; or need recharge, or a faulty set, don't know. I guess it may be the amps as the system turns back on again afterwards, and turns off again as before. If the batteries are under too much strain and can't cope, I will have to just run the system off mains, which isn't ideal. It could also be an issue with heat as to why the system shuts off, easiest way to know if the batteries are ok, and issue is heat, is to run system with cover off and see what happens.

These are set-backs, i'm hoping after all this work that the issues can be resolved. This project has been a right royal pain in the butt from start to end, feel like binning it, but won't! If the system stops working however, I may not be able to resolve the issue now project is so advanced.

YouTube Video Link

[Bob Dobbs]

Cool work.

[bacteria]

Think I may have found the problem. Me and my stupid wiring! *duh*

Looks like I connected the grounds of the three batteries together fine for a nice 6 amp system, but connected two of the positive connections of the batteries together but not to the third one, and the third one was running straight to the console by itself, not involving the other two cells!

This in effect means the system was running on just ONE set of cells, 2 amps - not surprising the system was cutting out, the protection circuit would have cut the power to stop the battery pack overloading!

That is interesting on a different level - the current needed was calculated at about 2.7 amps or thereabouts, yet a battery pack with only 2 amps managed to make it run - BTW, wasn't about 30 seconds, more like minute.

That also accounts for the screen looking ok some of the time and a bit dimmer the bulk of the time - of course it would, no enough juice!

Ok, that's fine. Just got to figure out the minute changes to the VMU needed to get it just right... and of course solder one more wire to the system to connect the batteries together properly!

Happy again, have to expect teething problems!

[bacteria]

Ran the system for about 30 mins without issues, whilst seeing the the VMU adjustment. System running fine now the batteries are hooked up properly.

The VMU is VERY touch sensitive to adjustment. It would have been better in hindsight to have moulded the original case into my case rather than all this hassle however what's done is done.

I was dreading having to remove the guts from the system for this minor adjustment, which may or may not succeed, so prodded with a strong plastic thin tube to press in a couple of places accessible easily - worked. Hot glued the tube into place, will test again tomorrow or Monday, however seems this may (hopefully) have got all the lines on the VMU to work properly. Not sure with any minor flex in the case when closed if that will remain the situation, only one way to know though.

Excuse these two pics, they are rubbish! Rather than manouvering the case top around, being extremely careful, used a mirror to reflect what the VMU was showing - means of course although I can see the image perfectly, the camera can't get a good image from a reflection; so excuse the quality. You can see what I mean anyway:

Before:



After:



If this, or similar adjustments fail when the case is being closed, I will have to open the system up, which would be a setback. Will know tomorrow or Monday and will keep you posted.

[bacteria]

Ok, work update, no pics today:

VMU is working fine, no missing lines, etc.

Opened case up several times and near closed case (didn't have to close completely for testings).

The RGB was too dark, removed the capacitors and resistors on the lines (they were recommended in the pinout I found to use them to brighten the screen) - no difference, image too dark. So, made the system work via composite again. Really, there is little or no difference with composite vs RGB on the Dreamcast on a PSone screen. Image now is bright and lovely again. Took a while to work out what the wires were to connect to the system with as everything is enclosed!

Tested using the joystick on Quake 3 - I think it works rather well actually!

One pain - the right shoulder progressive switch didn't work, it did before. Only thing I could think of was interference on the lines, after checking everything else. The wires from the right shoulder button are quite long in fairness, so I attached a second set of wires, shorter ones, to the contacts, and all is great now - can fire in Quake 3 now!

Talking of Quake 3 - tested controls in the game - move forward to pick up a weapon, the rumble really shakes the console quite noticeably, the red LED glows; etc. Same also when fire a weapon.

Boy, looking forward to showing you guys what this system can do in Quake 3 - you won't be disappointed!!

Secured one of the four screw points with a screw, three more to go, then project will be finished....tomorrow....

[Dihnekis]

Yeah this is pretty awesome.

[bacteria]

Spent literally all day on this issue, FIXED IT!

I had two loose wires - some nifty wiring needed; works! I was about to strip the board for parts, however wanted "one last try", that failed, however when lifted up the DC board one wire dropped, then a second one.

So, back on course again. Will try and make things more compact now I have the chance...