USB4MAPLE adapter

[MoeFoh]

@Jaxel
Since your in there soldering anyway, you could go old school and put in a glass fuse and holder.

Fuses & holder (from Amazon):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DSBT9FL6/
Maybe the 1A fuse could work, but to be safe -
800mA fuse:
https://www.amazon.com/Qty-800mA-Fast-B ... 004HM0HKA/

Another option: Connect two RXEF040 in parallel (with plenty of spacing between the two), thus allowing 800mA of current to pass-through.

And as mentioned, replace with a RXEF090, although the 1.8A trip current makes me nervous.

[RazorX]

@Jaxel
Since your in there soldering anyway, you could go old school and put in a glass fuse and holder.

Fuses & holder (from Amazon):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DSBT9FL6/
Maybe the 1A fuse could work, but to be safe -
800mA fuse:
https://www.amazon.com/Qty-800mA-Fast-B ... 004HM0HKA/

Another option: Connect two RXEF040 in parallel (with plenty of spacing between the two), thus allowing 800mA of current to pass-through.

And as mentioned, replace with a RXEF090, although the 1.8A trip current makes me nervous.

why on earth would you want to do anything like that when you can use a resettable fuse where if it blows you just turn the console off for like 10 seconds and then it's good to go again.

[MoeFoh]

@Jaxel
Since your in there soldering anyway, you could go old school and put in a glass fuse and holder.

Fuses & holder (from Amazon):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DSBT9FL6/
Maybe the 1A fuse could work, but to be safe -
800mA fuse:
https://www.amazon.com/Qty-800mA-Fast-B ... 004HM0HKA/

Another option: Connect two RXEF040 in parallel (with plenty of spacing between the two), thus allowing 800mA of current to pass-through.

And as mentioned, replace with a RXEF090, although the 1.8A trip current makes me nervous.

why on earth would you want to do anything like that when you can use a resettable fuse where if it blows you just turn the console off for like 10 seconds and then it's good to go again.

Why on earth? So the controller board can deliver 800mA of current like it was originally designed to do.

[RazorX]

@Jaxel
Since your in there soldering anyway, you could go old school and put in a glass fuse and holder.

Fuses & holder (from Amazon):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DSBT9FL6/
Maybe the 1A fuse could work, but to be safe -
800mA fuse:
https://www.amazon.com/Qty-800mA-Fast-B ... 004HM0HKA/

Another option: Connect two RXEF040 in parallel (with plenty of spacing between the two), thus allowing 800mA of current to pass-through.

And as mentioned, replace with a RXEF090, although the 1.8A trip current makes me nervous.

why on earth would you want to do anything like that when you can use a resettable fuse where if it blows you just turn the console off for like 10 seconds and then it's good to go again.

Why on earth? So the controller board can deliver 800mA of current like it was originally designed to do.

i'd rather just buy a 0.9A RXEF090 off ebay or some other site if i needed, or just use the stock fuse providing it's not blown
they're quite easy to get.

[Lord*Hypnos]

Does anyone want to help me troubleshoot this?

I just put this together and flashed the file from the first post. I have tried 3 different wired 360 gamepads and none of them seem to work. Unfortunately, I don't have any official ones to test with, but 2 of the controllers are pretty normal in button layout and the 3rd is a, only slightly weird, fight pad. All work OOTB on my PC (running openSUSE Tumbleweed Linux). Could they really be different enough than the official pads to not work?

They are:

• Hori Gem Pad

• PDP Afterglow

• PDP Versus Fight Pad

All of these have all of the lights on the Xbox button flashing when plugged in to the USB4MAPLE

I could get a Microsoft-branded optical mouse to register in DreamShell (haven't tried elsewhere yet)

Monoprice USB Hub seems very inconsistent as to whether it will work or not (and does not yet seem to want to work if I start the machine with it plugged in), but a more normal Monoprice C to A dongle seems fine.

I can't get it to see a flash drive as a VMU, but this is likely because it doesn't like the USB Hub

I continuity tested all the wires (from the plug to the point they are soldered to the microcontroller) and they seem fine

Solder joints also look good enough

Tried both port 1 and port 2, and normal DC pads work fine

I tested the voltage across +5 and GND on the microcontroller and got roughly 5v

I'm thinking my next thing to test would have to be whether my retrobit saturn pad works, but it's currently being borrowed by someone else, or to try to track down a USB 360 controller receiver with one of my official pads. Would definitely be a shame if I couldn't get my PDP Versus to work though.

Anything else I should be looking at?

At least my CMOS battery replacement worked

[MoeFoh]

A 360 controller LED should go from flash, to just upper left quadrant on solid, so that tells me the controller is not being recognized.

Your basic cheap 2 port USB splitter cable generally work just fine.

Older smaller USB 2.0 drives seem to work better for the VMU (formatted FAT32).

VMU will not work until a compatible controller is detected.

[Lord*Hypnos]

A 360 controller LED should go from flash, to just upper left quadrant on solid, so that tells me the controller is not being recognized.

Hmm... Is there any way that I can provide data to be able to allow these aftermarket 360 controllers to be supported in the future?

I guess I'll have to look around for a USB splitter. Good to know that most of those work, at least.

[MoeFoh]

A 360 controller LED should go from flash, to just upper left quadrant on solid, so that tells me the controller is not being recognized.

Hmm... Is there any way that I can provide data to be able to allow these aftermarket 360 controllers to be supported in the future?

I guess I'll have to look around for a USB splitter. Good to know that most of those work, at least.

Not unless they have a d-input mode. And even then the controller output would need debugged and the firmware updated. What are the exact model numbers so we can take a look?

You could test out your wired controllers with one of these set to x-input and plugged into usb4maple: https://www.mayflash.com/product/magic_ns_2.html
It will also supports Bluetooth controllers.

[foxx]

Older smaller USB 2.0 drives seem to work better for the VMU (formatted FAT32).

MoeFoh, is it better to take USB 2.0 for 16 Gb? When formatting flash memory, what cluster size should I specify and what program should I use?

[Lord*Hypnos]

Not unless they have a d-input mode. And even then the controller output would need debugged and the firmware updated. What are the exact model numbers so we can take a look?

I'm about to test the mouse to see if I can get it to work in a game because I can do that now, but in answer to this specific request, including the name that I get from lsusb:

PDP Afterglow PL-3702.

Code: Select all

Logic3 Afterglow Gamepad for Xbox 360

Hori Gem Pad EX, can't find anything more specific on the controller itself

Code: Select all

ThrustMaster, Inc. Hori Gem Controller for Xbox 360

PDP Versus Fight Pad MS-3660

Code: Select all

Harmonix Music PDP Versus Fighting Pad for Xbox 360