RESOLVED: Is My VA1 Completely Shot?

[T_O]

I'll start with the current symptoms:

• No video, no audio.

• Nothing appears on the VMU, no chime

• Disc spins forever (until power-off), very faint laser beam from lens

• Fan is running, power LED is on

• All voltage rails check A-OK both on CleanMod and on mobo

• 3.3V getting to BIOS and to DAC

• Proper voltages getting to AV connector pins

• two different composite AV cables tried

• Problem persists after recapping mobo

Now the backstory. I recently installed the following mods from RetroSix:

• Battery/controller port mod

• CleanPower (v0.9a) board

• Japanese Cake 3.3V BIOS, v1.032

Prior to installing these, the DC worked fine. Booted quickly, read discs, etc. I have several years of soldering experience, and use the appropriate tools in the appropriate way; I know what I'm doing.

On the first several tests, I got the two-minute boot with a static screen. Power LED was lit, all test LEDs on CleanPower board were OK, the fan was working, and the Japanese Cake menu was fully working and accessible once the boot finished. The GDROM wasn't reading discs, and there was no beam coming from the laser lens; the disc would spin and then stop. The VMU was functioning just fine. Tested all lines of the GDROM's ribbon cable for continuity; that was good.

Chased and chased the problem, and eventually got a *weak* beam from the lens, which got the disc spinning, but forever, and if trying to read it after the boot completed, I'd get the "Wait while trying to read disc" prompt, hanging on the screen forever, which basically soft-locked the system.

Recapping the mobo did not solve nor change the issue. Ultimately, I tried reballing the power header pins on the underside of the mobo, and testing it THEN led to the symptoms listed above, and that's where we are now. Since then, I've:

• Tested voltage to DAC - voltage OK

• Desoldered AV/Serial connectors from mobo, checked for lifted traces, and cleaned & resoldered; everything OK there

• tested continuity on each filter connected to AV port - all OK

• tested continuity from mobo ribbon connector to controller port board's ribbon connector - all OK

• tried different USB-C power brick with more wattage - VIN = 15V; 12V, 5V & 3.3V rails all test OK

• made extra-sure there was sufficient pressure when securing GDROM and controller board to shielded mobo (in other words, all screws in and snug)

• thoroughly checked for any spot that needed to be cleaned; no corrosion found

• "fan check logic signal" point tested OK

At this point, what's left to check/test, and how? I'll gladly provide pics on request. Thanks in advance.

[MoeFoh]

I'll start with the current symptoms:

• No video, no audio.

• Nothing appears on the VMU, no chime

• Disc spins forever (until power-off), very faint laser beam from lens

• Fan is running, power LED is on

• All voltage rails check A-OK both on CleanMod and on mobo

• 3.3V getting to BIOS and to DAC

• Proper voltages getting to AV connector pins

• two different composite AV cables tried

• Problem persists after recapping mobo

Now the backstory. I recently installed the following mods from RetroSix:

• Battery/controller port mod

• CleanPower (v0.9a) board

• Japanese Cake 3.3V BIOS, v1.032

Prior to installing these, the DC worked fine. Booted quickly, read discs, etc. I have several years of soldering experience, and use the appropriate tools in the appropriate way; I know what I'm doing.

On the first several tests, I got the two-minute boot with a static screen. Power LED was lit, all test LEDs on CleanPower board were OK, the fan was working, and the Japanese Cake menu was fully working and accessible once the boot finished. The GDROM wasn't reading discs, and there was no beam coming from the laser lens; the disc would spin and then stop. The VMU was functioning just fine. Tested all lines of the GDROM's ribbon cable for continuity; that was good.

Chased and chased the problem, and eventually got a *weak* beam from the lens, which got the disc spinning, but forever, and if trying to read it after the boot completed, I'd get the "Wait while trying to read disc" prompt, hanging on the screen forever, which basically soft-locked the system.

Recapping the mobo did not solve nor change the issue. Ultimately, I tried reballing the power header pins on the underside of the mobo, and testing it THEN led to the symptoms listed above, and that's where we are now. Since then, I've:

• Tested voltage to DAC - voltage OK

• Desoldered AV/Serial connectors from mobo, checked for lifted traces, and cleaned & resoldered; everything OK there

• tested continuity on each filter connected to AV port - all OK

• tested continuity from mobo ribbon connector to controller port board's ribbon connector - all OK

• tried different USB-C power brick with more wattage - VIN = 15V; 12V, 5V & 3.3V rails all test OK

• made extra-sure there was sufficient pressure when securing GDROM and controller board to shielded mobo (in other words, all screws in and snug)

• thoroughly checked for any spot that needed to be cleaned; no corrosion found

• "fan check logic signal" point tested OK

At this point, what's left to check/test, and how? I'll gladly provide pics on request. Thanks in advance.

-What happens if you install the original power supply?
-Try a minimal boot - drive assembly & drive controller board removed.
-The 12v line doesn't seem right - like the current is being limited somehow.
-Check for solder bridges with the new wire mods.
-Check for motherboard screw damage.
-It's possible the motherboard IDE connector was damaged from the heat gun.
-Touch the main chips for excessive heat or coldness. Use a phone thermal cam, if available.

A motherboard picture would be helpful.

Next time do one mod at a time and check for success after each mod is done - makes troubleshooting easier.

[T_O]

-What happens if you install the original power supply?
-Try a minimal boot - drive assembly & controller board removed.
-The 12v line doesn't seem right - like the current is being limited somehow.
-Check for solder bridges with the new wire mods.
-Check for motherboard screw damage.
-It's possible the motherboard IDE connector was damaged from the heat gun.
-Touch the main chips for excessive heat or coldness. Use a phone thermal cam, if available.

A motherboard picture would be helpful.

Next time do one mod at a time and check for success after each mod is done - makes troubleshooting easier.

- Same issues
- tried that; same issue
- Too much resistance somewhere on the mobo?
- No bridges; I check all smaller joints with a microscope
- No screw damage
- I cordoned off the plastic connectors with aluminum tape before applying hot air; while it's still possible, I see no signs of damage; I even reflowed and double-checked the smd pins of the connectors after removing the stock bios
- This one's interesting. What temp range am I looking for? ~50°C?

[T_O]

Touch the main chips for excessive heat or coldness.

CPU got to ~47°C
Graphics engine got to ~57°C
SDRAM chips from 31-40°C

[MoeFoh]

Touch the main chips for excessive heat or coldness.

CPU got to ~47°C
Graphics engine got to ~57°C
SDRAM chips from 31-40°C

Hmmm.. This is unfortunate as it appears you did everything correctly. I guess the question is when do you declare a motherboard dead?

As a last resort, you could remove the new BIOS chip mod and solder in the old one and see what happens.

[T_O]

Hmmm.. This is unfortunate as it appears you did everything correct. I guess the question is when do you declare a motherboard dead?

As a last resort, you could remove the new BIOS chip mod and solder in the old one and see what happens.

I just finished reflowing the CPU and Graphics engine, and... static screen's back! But everything's in grayscale.

I could try reflowing further, but my local store has a donor DC for me to pick up, so I think I'm going to go that route first. Hopefully it's a VA1 or 2.

Thanks for the help! I'll post again once I have an update/solution.

[T_O]

*** ISSUE RESOLVED ***

Came back home with the donor (a VA1, thank God), and tested it as-is. Boots fine, won't read discs. Okay, very promising. Swapped mobos, and started adding things one at a time....

Original GDROM: OK!
CleanPower: OK!
Battery/controller port mod: OK!

The culprit was, therefore, the Japanese Cake. I did the process of swapping BIOSes, thinking the JC would cause boot failure in the donor mobo. I'm happy to say I was wrong. All systems go! This is system is now 100% operational, with one more mod on the way in the mail (Retro Gem DC HDMI).

Lesson learned: it can look like you did everything correctly when it comes to soldering an IC; you can even push on each pin to make sure none are loose; but never rule out the possibility that you need to redo it.

Thanks again to everyone who helped.

[MoeFoh]

*** ISSUE RESOLVED ***

Came back home with the donor (a VA1, thank God), and tested it as-is. Boots fine, won't read discs. Okay, very promising. Swapped mobos, and started adding things one at a time....

Original GDROM: OK!
CleanPower: OK!
Battery/controller port mod: OK!

The culprit was, therefore, the Japanese Cake. I did the process of swapping BIOSes, thinking the JC would cause boot failure in the donor mobo. I'm happy to say I was wrong. All systems go! This is system is now 100% operational, with one more mod on the way in the mail (Retro Gem DC HDMI).

Lesson learned: it can look like you did everything correctly when it comes to soldering an IC; you can even push on each pin to make sure none are loose; but never rule out the possibility that you need to redo it.

Thanks again to everyone who helped.

Nice!