Lid Sensor - Fixed with images! Thanks to all who helped

[duke2k7]

Hi Guys,

I've been lurking around the site for a while and decided to join formally, so hi!

I loved my Dreamcast the first time around, and now I managed to pick one up for a few quid recently to re-live my younger days!

It's the type that boots CDRs so I'm laughing in respect of software, but I have noticed a problem; the lid, or more accurately, then lid sensor.

When I close the lid and the message comes up stating it's dutifully checking the disc, it'll suddenly go straight back to the dashboard. I took the unit apart, and temporarily I have used some double-sided tape and (stroke of genius, I reckon) a small piece of sponge, it now eases the lid sensor back in the right position.

Is there a way to to connect a 'push to make' switch to the contacts on the GDROM board so I can manually confirm the presence of a disc after I've shut the lid?

Or, any other fix options you might have for me.

Thanks guys...

[Dingo]

You could always connect an SPST switch to the same points on the board that the current lid switch is connected to on the GD-rom board. That way, you could turn the switch 'on' to force the DC into thinking the lid is closed regardless of whether or not the lid switch is working. Heck... you could play games with the lid open! If you leave the new switch 'off' then the lid switch would function (or malfunction in your case) as normal. This should be relatively easy to accomplish.

The lid switch is actaully a dual pull normally open momentary switch. So it has 4 poles. If you look at the traces on underside of the GD-Rom board where the switch is connected however, you will see that it's soldered into the circuit with both 'pulls' in parallel... so it really just functions as a single pull switch as far as the DC is concerned. Solder the leads for this additional switch right to the solder points of the current lid switch. There is also an unused solder point labeled C138 right in the center of the lid switch points on the underside of the GD-Rom board you could use to solder your new switch to.


(Note: If you have a model 2 dreamcast, the lid switch is even easier to bypass, as it connects with a plug to the main board. There is no separate GD-Rom board in a model 2. Just tap into the wires coming from the switch itself.)

Hope that answers your question.

[duke2k7]

Hiya, thanks for the reply.

On my GDROM, the switch is soldered directly to the board, and is only visible through a small hole on the GDROM housing, so I guess I have a type 1 DC?

Am I right in assuming that I'd have to completely disassemble the GDROM to get to the underside of that board to bypass the switch? I was considering using a little button switch built into the side or back of the unit.

Thanks again for your help.

[duke2k7]

Hiya,

I took your advice and I de-soldered the sensor switch, and soldered two pieces of Kynar wire to the underside of the board, bridging each pair of connections.

I have routed the wire along the case and out of the case to where the modem housing is (I've removed the modem and just left the white casing) and I have a single pole, single throw switch to put into place so that it looks ok and professional.

I have uploaded the piccie to show where the wire has come out, and I will upload the finished item along with other images of where and what I have soldered to show others if anyone has the same problem as me.

It was far simpler than I first thought, so I am very happy with the outcome.

Thanks for your help,

[Dingo]

Well done!

I'm glad you've solved your problem and happy I was able to assist.

Looking forward to how it comes out in the end when the switch is installed!

[duke2k7]

As promised, here are the final pictures showing how my DC looks after the required 'mod':

First image shows the original position for the wires I brought from the GDROM board.

Second image shows the new wiring position, and the switch attached to the modem housing (modem removed as, lets face it, it's pretty useless in the broadband age)

Third image showing the close-up of the switch, and how i got it to stay in position ( soldering irons, i love em)

Final image shows the DC from the outside with the Modem Housing in place, just waiting on a label from my Dymo labeller to make it easy for everyone to use.

Operation is pretty simple; Switch toward the rear of the console, no disc present. Put the disc in, close the lid and then flip the switch forward to make the DC think it's kicked it's sensor in.

Hope this is helpful for you guys should anyone have a similar problem.